Pearls come in many shapes and sizes whether they are real or not, and it’s not always easy to tell the difference between the genuine article or a fake. Even amongst genuine pearls there are many different classes of both natural and cultured varieties, all with their own different properties and all valued very differently as pearl jewellery. Before buying any pearls it’s important that you know what you’re getting, so here are some methods you can use to tell the difference between a genuine pearl and a fake:

The Tooth Test
It’s said that if you rub a pearl against the biting edge of your front teeth, the texture of the surface will tell you whether or not it is genuine. Real pearls normally have a more rough, irregular texture in contrast to imitation pearls which are usually very smooth or even glassy. In reality this test is far from foolproof, as fakes are often made to appear completely genuine and some real pearls can sometimes be smooth, particularly if the surface has been dyed.

The Sun Test
A slightly more reliable method is to take the pearls out in the sun and take a close look at the appearance of the lustre, or shine, that you see on the surface. Apart from extremely unusual and rare specimens, real pearls hardly ever appear perfectly matched in full daylight and you will be able to see slight imperfections in the colour and lustre.

Surface Magnification
Don’t underestimate the power of a magnifying glass – a closeup look at the pearl earrings, necklace or brooch can tell you a lot, and is one of the most effective ways of distinguishing between genuine and fake pearls. The surface of a real pearl is crossed with hundreds of tiny almost invisible crooked lines, making it look almost scaly when placed under the microscope. It also helps to look closely at the drill holes in the pearl, which are normally as small as possible in a real pearl as larger holes devalue the gem. Real pearls usually have holes drilled from either end, making the passage narrower at the centre of the pearl.

Shape
One of the most obvious ways to identify real pearl sets is to look closely at the shape of each pearl and whether or not they are close to being identical – real pearls are hardly ever perfectly round, and it is almost unheard of to find a whole string of pearls of exactly the same size, shape and weight. Those which are will be very expensive, or they are more than likely imitations.

X-Ray
The only truly reliable way to be sure a pearl is authentic is to pay a certified gemologist to verify it. For a fee they will be able to x-ray the pearls, allowing you to see inside to any imperfections or variations in density and identifying the nucleus to determine how the pearl was originally formed. To be worth paying the price you need to first be fairly sure that the pearl is genuine, but some fakes can be very convincing and it’s the only way to really be 100% sure without damaging the pearl.

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